A Quick Trip to Seville

Seville has been occupied for a long long time -- by the Tartesians from 700 BC, to the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, and then the Moors who had a long-lasting influence on the architecture, language, culture, and cuisine. Today, Seville is a modern Spanish city straddling the wide Guadalquivir River but with a skyline much more reminiscent of Cristobal Colon´s day, that´s Christopher Columbus, it still exudes an atmosphere unlike any other city in the world.

The Moors ruled Seville and most of Spain for hundreds of years but with the Christian reconquest in 1248, the grand mosque became an even grander Cathedral, known as the largest (and certainly one of the most opulent) in the world. The Cathedral sports the tall Giralda tower which formerly was the ancient minaret of a Moorish mosque. Begun in 1184, it is the signature monument of Seville.

Tucked in a plaza behind the Cathedral is the monumental complex called Reales Alcazares palaces, a Moorish palace which dates back to 700 AD. A series of patios leads you deep into the palace interiors and then out into alleyways of the former Jewish barrio. Alleys are so close that they are called ´kissing streets´ because the walls almost touch. Here are homes with cool fountains trickling in inner courtyards, tabernas, hostals, and restaurants, all within a short wander from the bustling square in front of the Cathedral but quiet, cool from the shade of orange trees, and tranquil.

The Plaza de España is nearby and a short walk from the Cathedral takes you through shady parks with the constant cool sound of fountains. On this day when I visited Seville, Oct. 28, the weather was perfect, about 23 C/ 76 F but in the summer it can reach above 100 F and is sweltering. The many parks throughout the city give its citizens a place to rest and relax and shelter from the heat of the sun.

I stayed in the Triana Backpackers Hostal and I enjoyed my brief stay there. Below is a photo of the inner courtyard and on the roof of the building was a patio with hammocks, sofas, chaise lounges, and a covered area. I spent a lovely evening there with some young Europeans, a guitar, and 2 bottles of wine, under the stars, in our shirtsleeves. Great place!!