Sunday, January 29, 2012

Back to Ireland, 2012






Well my bags are packed, or nearly so, and I'm heading back to Ireland, this time to the Viking town of Wexford in the 'sunny southeast.' Al and I spent 2 months in Westford, Co. Mayo, last spring and we love it there -- we have friends, favorite walks, Clew Bay and Crough Patrick; but this time, I'm wanting to be able to pop up to Dublin and I also am looking forward to exploring Kilkenny, Waterford, and the rolling countryside in the south. I'll miss the winds of Westport blowing the town around, but Wexford has opera, birding, the Hook Lighthouse, and eight Story-telling Houses where tall tales, myths, and life stories are shared.

I'm looking forward to waking up each morning and being in Ireland! I have rented a room in a house with 3 other women: a chef, a health care worker, and a laundry assistant. The house is 5 minutes walk from town so I imagine I'll be walking through town, finding my green grocer's and the town library, hearing local traditional Irish music, discovering art galleries, etc. etc. Setting up a new life and seeing what each day brings.

I'll do my best to share my experiences and photos and I hope you enjoy the ride!

Friday, July 4, 2008

Summer Solstice


Summer Solstice is celebrated in Ireland not on June 21 but June 23, the former longest day of the year. Towns, villages, hamlets and clusters of neighbors honor the pagan day by gathering anything that will burn, building a sky-high pile of refuse, pallets, mattresses, and even a picnic table and setting it on fire.

In my village of Murrisk, the pile was gathered late and hastily on Monday afternoon. But I was told by neighbors as we stood around the fire that in formewr years, people collected stuff for weeks and added on to the pile until it was alarmingly high.


Fron my front door facing Clew Bay, I could see other fires across the Bay and up into the Nephin Mts. And as I walked in to the village other fires were streaming smoke across the evening sky.

It's mostly for the kids and the old ones, although a few teenagers had plopped down on the periphery, backs turned to the adults, talking and screeching to each other as teens will do. The youngest kids all had brought small water bottles to dip into the small creek and spray each other with water. Soon they all were soaked to the skin and with the cold wind blowing off the bay it will be lucky if they all don't come down with pneumonia!

I spotted one of my neighbors and she introduced me to her friends. Soon I was having a chat and meeting more of my neighbors. Murrisk is a tiny close-knit village and people are friendly but make no mistake, it will take some time before I am accepted as the 'blow-in.'

As the sun shifted down behind the leafy elms leaving us chilled in the shadows, I headed uphill to home. The Nehpins across the bay were misted over in rain but for once, all was clear on our side. The sun doesn't really set now in the heart of the summer this far north in Ireland. It is still light at 1 am and then the sun is coming up again at 3:30.








Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Getting Your Irish Driver's License



Getting a driver’s license in Ireland is perplexing. Well a lot more than perplexing. It is fucking annoying, maddening, frustrating, idiotic.

You know. Here’s a sample of the test questions:

If the road is slippery, when should you drive your tractor with the left side wheels up on the grass verge in order to improve road holding?

OK, even ignoring the words ‘verge’ and ‘road holding,’ how is one to answer a question like this??

Here’s another one:

On a 2 plus 1 road, there are
a) two motorway lanes and one non-motorway lane in two directions.
b) Two non-motorway lanes and one motorway lane in two directions
c) Two motorway lanes in one direction and one non-motorway lane in the opposite direction
d) Two non-motorway lanes in one direction and one non-motorway lane in the opposite direction.

Email me your guesses and let's see if anyone is even close. All responses will be answered!

All foreign drivers have to pass the Irish drivers test. Except for those countires that have special relationships with Ireland, like the EU countries, the UK, Singapore, Australia, New Zealand. And Brazil. And maybe Costa Rica.

But Americans have to take the theory test, pass it, then sign up for the driving test, wait 5-12 months for an appointment (the licensing agency is SERIOUSLY backlogged but there is still no leeway on completing this marathon), then take a driving test.

I decided to investigate the cost of insurance in the event that I buy a car. Because I don’t have an Irish drivers license, I was told by the insurance agent that I couldn’t insure a car.

As I watched drivers of all nationalities whiz by me in their fine autos, I couldn’t believe that that was the truth. I was entering the Irish Dimension where nothing is as it is, it’s actually something else entirely. Four trips later to the same insurance company, I pried out of them that a) Americans all drive automatics so they don’t know how to drive in Ireland because Irish all have manual drives; b) that Brasilians (BRASILIANS!!!) can drive on their licenses in Ireland I guess because they are cool dancers; and c) if I get an International Driving Permit, I can get insurance until I get an Irish driver’s license.

I looked pretty cool myself as I danced down the street, happy in the thought that if I wanted to buy a car, I could now get insurance. Ah, but how much would this insurance cost me?

Back I go to the agent’s. Well, we all know I don’t have an Irish driver’s license but the agent informs me that once I pass the theory test, I would have a provisional driver’s license. With this, I cannot drive alone (!!!!?) and I must have displayed on my car 2 red-lettered ‘L’s’ designating me a raw beginner; can’t drive alone, can’t drive at night.

I remind the agent about the new-found possibility with my International Driving Permit. “Oh yes,’ she sighs. “Well let me check that out.” She has to call headquarters and they return with an annual payment of 842 euros.

Jeez, that’s what homicidal young 20 year old males have to pay. Evidently I have to start my driving history over from scratch for the Irish authorities to believe that I am actually a good driver. Drat being an American, why couldn’t I have been born Brasilian?

As I am sitting there considering the actual possibility of paying that extraordinary amount, I remember a friend told me about an online insurance broker. I ask my current agent to let me look them up in her telephone book (her look of incredulity was satisfying). After a quick conversation, exchange of particulars, the online folks tell me that I can drive for one year on my International Driving Permit and the annual insurance payment is 284 euros.

What?!?

Just in time. Because I have found a lovely little 1 bedroom cottage out by the sea and at the same time, checked out a very reasonable Hyundai which I will need to cover the distance of 10 km from my new village of Murrisk into Westport. I have moved up from the international boarding house to my own place, just in time for summer. And I am signed up for my driver’s theory test on July 10 with the driving test somewhere off in the misty future. Wish me luck!

Retiring in Ireland

I arrived back in Westport, Co. Mayo at the end of January 2008, armed with a year long visa granted me by the Immigration police. I contacted them after having an encouraging conversation with another American who was retired and aiming towards residency.

‘Aiming’ is the operative word here, since it takes five years of reapplying for one-year visas to be eligible for residency. Once you have been granted residency, you can then apply for naturalized citizenship and all the benefits that might imply.

My American friend Joe advised me to have tax returns, bank statements, and health insurance card available for perusal. But the police official only glanced at the insuarance card, asked if my kids were joining me (“no”), told me to pay 100 euros to an official bank account, and present the receipt to him when he returned in a few days. Once I had paid, he brought me down to the Gardai Station (police), took my photo, stamped my passport, and issued me a residency card, that isn’t REALLY a residency card. But it does allow me to live in Ireland for one year and offers the possibility of extending the visa every year until I do have residency.

The stamp in my passport is a bit problematic since it says I am not allowed to work or set up a business. Since my pension is not overly generous and Ireland is now the most expensive place to live in Europe (everyone says this, even the Brits, which I do not understand since anyone can see that the UK is hellaceously expensive. I mean it costs L1.40 for a cuppa tea for God’s sakes, that’s $2.40!! although now the pound has slipped against the Almighty Euro so the pound IS cheaper to Europeans), work will be desirous if I want to do anything beyond the very basics.

I spent the winter as a roommate, one of three living in a 4 bdrm row house in the center of Westport. The house was drafty and cold, with only a small peat fireplace and a wall-storage heater in the living room. The rest of the house was frigid. The bathroom had a electric water heating system which you flipped on just before turning on the water. Saved money on electricity, worked great, but was a little cold once you had to turn the hot water off. Not to mention sitting on that cold toilet seat for your first pee!! YIKES!

To keep track of my expenses, I wrote down every cent I forked over in a small book. In this way, I could see where I needed to watch myself and when I could splurge. I would recommend this activity for anyone wanting to know exactly where the money is leaking out. I set aside one day a week to spend nothing and sometimes I managed two days with no money being spent. I learned to pare down and adjust to life in Ireland. Not all families lived like this, many have central heating, and unlimited hot water. But I didn’t mind giving up some of the unnecessities of life for the greater goodness of living in Ireland. Life is simple and slower, food tastes better, walking is part of life and not part of my exercise program. People are friendly, most have a ready smile and a laugh, the hills off in the distance are dappled with sunshine and a passing shower, and there is a softness in the air that feels grand on my skin.

It may not be paradise, but it does a good imitation.

Monday, April 28, 2008

Rip Out Your Lawn -- The Revolutionary Act of Gardening

No more idle talk about the impact of higher fuel prices on the cost of food, people are starting to panic a bit. I will continue to try to garden for the pleasure of growing my own food, not neccessarily saving my life. Because I feel that there is a system -- global capitalism? -- in place that is now fueling the food shortages -- those speculators buying commoditiy futures. We don't have a prayer of a chance with folks making money off a food crisis. But stay calm, eat less, and do what you can. Michael Pollan's article is sweet -- addressed to urbanites just starting to see that the world does not revolve around them and their lattes . . . SC

By Michael Pollan The New York Times, April 20, 2008 Straight to the Source

Why bother? That really is the big question facing us as individuals hoping to do something about climate change, and it's not an easy one to answer. I don't know about you, but for me the most upsetting moment in "An Inconvenient Truth" came long after Al Gore scared the hell out of me, constructing an utterly convincing case that the very survival of life on earth as we know it is threatened by climate change. No, the really dark moment came during the closing credits, when we are asked to . . . change our light bulbs. That's when it got really depressing. The immense disproportion between the magnitude of the problem Gore had described and the puniness of what he was asking us to do about it was enough to sink your heart.

But the drop-in-the-bucket issue is not the only problem lurking behind the "why bother" question. Let's say I do bother, big time. I turn my life upside-down, start biking to work, plant a big garden, turn down the thermostat so low I need the Jimmy Carter signature cardigan, forsake the clothes dryer for a laundry line across the yard, trade in the station wagon for a hybrid, get off the beef, go completely local. I could theoretically do all that, but what would be the point when I know full well that halfway around the world there lives my evil twin, some carbon-footprint doppelgänger in Shanghai or Chongqing who has just bought his first car (Chinese car ownership is where ours was back in 1918), is eager to swallow every bite of meat I forswear and who's positively itching to replace every last pound of CO2 I'm struggling no longer to emit. So what exactly would I have to show for all my trouble?

A sense of personal virtue, you might suggest, somewhat sheepishly. But what good is that when virtue itself is quickly becoming a term of derision? And not just on the editorial pages of The Wall Street Journal or on the lips of the vice president, who famously dismissed energy conservation as a "sign of personal virtue." No, even in the pages of The New York Times and The New Yorker, it seems the epithet "virtuous," when applied to an act of personal environmental responsibility, may be used only ironically. Tell me: How did it come to pass that virtue — a quality that for most of history has generally been deemed, well, a virtue — became a mark of liberal softheadedness? How peculiar, that doing the right thing by the environment — buying the hybrid, eating like a locavore — should now set you up for the Ed Begley Jr. treatment.

And even if in the face of this derision I decide I am going to bother, there arises the whole vexed question of getting it right. Is eating local or walking to work really going to reduce my carbon footprint? According to one analysis, if walking to work increases your appetite and you consume more meat or milk as a result, walking might actually emit more carbon than driving. A handful of studies have recently suggested that in certain cases under certain conditions, produce from places as far away as New Zealand might account for less carbon than comparable domestic products. True, at least one of these studies was co-written by a representative of agribusiness interests in (surprise!) New Zealand, but even so, they make you wonder. If determining the carbon footprint of food is really this complicated, and I've got to consider not only "food miles" but also whether the food came by ship or truck and how lushly the grass grows in New Zealand, then maybe on second thought I'll just buy the imported chops at Costco, at least until the experts get their footprints sorted out.

There are so many stories we can tell ourselves to justify doing nothing, but perhaps the most insidious is that, whatever we do manage to do, it will be too little too late. Climate change is upon us, and it has arrived well ahead of schedule. Scientists' projections that seemed dire a decade ago turn out to have been unduly optimistic: the warming and the melting is occurring much faster than the models predicted. Now truly terrifying feedback loops threaten to boost the rate of change exponentially, as the shift from white ice to blue water in the Arctic absorbs more sunlight and warming soils everywhere become more biologically active, causing them to release their vast stores of carbon into the air. Have you looked into the eyes of a climate scientist recently? They look really scared.

So do you still want to talk about planting gardens?

I do.

Whatever we can do as individuals to change the way we live at this suddenly very late date does seem utterly inadequate to the challenge. It's hard to argue with Michael Specter, in a recent New Yorker piece on carbon footprints, when he says: "Personal choices, no matter how virtuous [N.B.!], cannot do enough. It will also take laws and money." So it will. Yet it is no less accurate or hardheaded to say that laws and money cannot do enough, either; that it will also take profound changes in the way we live. Why? Because the climate-change crisis is at its very bottom a crisis of lifestyle — of character, even. The Big Problem is nothing more or less than the sum total of countless little everyday choices, most of them made by us (consumer spending represents 70 percent of our economy), and most of the rest of them made in the name of our needs and desires and preferences.

For us to wait for legislation or technology to solve the problem of how we're living our lives suggests we're not really serious about changing — something our politicians cannot fail to notice. They will not move until we do. Indeed, to look to leaders and experts, to laws and money and grand schemes, to save us from our predicament represents precisely the sort of thinking — passive, delegated, dependent for solutions on specialists — that helped get us into this mess in the first place. It's hard to believe that the same sort of thinking could now get us out of it.
Thirty years ago, Wendell Berry, the Kentucky farmer and writer, put forward a blunt analysis of precisely this mentality. He argued that the environmental crisis of the 1970s — an era innocent of climate change; what we would give to have back that environmental crisis! — was at its heart a crisis of character and would have to be addressed first at that level: at home, as it were. He was impatient with people who wrote checks to environmental organizations while thoughtlessly squandering fossil fuel in their everyday lives — the 1970s equivalent of people buying carbon offsets to atone for their Tahoes and Durangos. Nothing was likely to change until we healed the "split between what we think and what we do." For Berry, the "why bother" question came down to a moral imperative: "Once our personal connection to what is wrong becomes clear, then we have to choose: we can go on as before, recognizing our dishonesty and living with it the best we can, or we can begin the effort to change the way we think and live."

For Berry, the deep problem standing behind all the other problems of industrial civilization is "specialization," which he regards as the "disease of the modern character." Our society assigns us a tiny number of roles: we're producers (of one thing) at work, consumers of a great many other things the rest of the time, and then once a year or so we vote as citizens. Virtually all of our needs and desires we delegate to specialists of one kind or another — our meals to agribusiness, health to the doctor, education to the teacher, entertainment to the media, care for the environment to the environmentalist, political action to the politician.

As Adam Smith and many others have pointed out, this division of labor has given us many of the blessings of civilization. Specialization is what allows me to sit at a computer thinking about climate change. Yet this same division of labor obscures the lines of connection — and responsibility — linking our everyday acts to their real-world consequences, making it easy for me to overlook the coal-fired power plant that is lighting my screen, or the mountaintop in Kentucky that had to be destroyed to provide the coal to that plant, or the streams running crimson with heavy metals as a result.

Of course, what made this sort of specialization possible in the first place was cheap energy. Cheap fossil fuel allows us to pay distant others to process our food for us, to entertain us and to (try to) solve our problems, with the result that there is very little we know how to accomplish for ourselves. Think for a moment of all the things you suddenly need to do for yourself when the power goes out — up to and including entertaining yourself. Think, too, about how a power failure causes your neighbors — your community — to suddenly loom so much larger in your life. Cheap energy allowed us to leapfrog community by making it possible to sell our specialty over great distances as well as summon into our lives the specialties of countless distant others.
Here's the point: Cheap energy, which gives us climate change, fosters precisely the mentality that makes dealing with climate change in our own lives seem impossibly difficult. Specialists ourselves, we can no longer imagine anyone but an expert, or anything but a new technology or law, solving our problems. Al Gore asks us to change the light bulbs because he probably can't imagine us doing anything much more challenging, like, say, growing some portion of our own food. We can't imagine it, either, which is probably why we prefer to cross our fingers and talk about the promise of ethanol and nuclear power — new liquids and electrons to power the same old cars and houses and lives.

The "cheap-energy mind," as Wendell Berry called it, is the mind that asks, "Why bother?" because it is helpless to imagine — much less attempt — a different sort of life, one less divided, less reliant. Since the cheap-energy mind translates everything into money, its proxy, it prefers to put its faith in market-based solutions — carbon taxes and pollution-trading schemes. If we could just get the incentives right, it believes, the economy will properly value everything that matters and nudge our self-interest down the proper channels. The best we can hope for is a greener version of the old invisible hand. Visible hands it has no use for.

But while some such grand scheme may well be necessary, it's doubtful that it will be sufficient or that it will be politically sustainable before we've demonstrated to ourselves that change is possible. Merely to give, to spend, even to vote, is not to do, and there is so much that needs to be done — without further delay. In the judgment of James Hansen, the NASA climate scientist who began sounding the alarm on global warming 20 years ago, we have only 10 years left to start cutting — not just slowing — the amount of carbon we're emitting or face a "different planet." Hansen said this more than two years ago, however; two years have gone by, and nothing of consequence has been done. So: eight years left to go and a great deal left to do.
Which brings us back to the "why bother" question and how we might better answer it. The reasons not to bother are many and compelling, at least to the cheap-energy mind. But let me offer a few admittedly tentative reasons that we might put on the other side of the scale:
If you do bother, you will set an example for other people. If enough other people bother, each one influencing yet another in a chain reaction of behavioral change, markets for all manner of green products and alternative technologies will prosper and expand. (Just look at the market for hybrid cars.) Consciousness will be raised, perhaps even changed: new moral imperatives and new taboos might take root in the culture. Driving an S.U.V. or eating a 24-ounce steak or illuminating your McMansion like an airport runway at night might come to be regarded as outrages to human conscience. Not having things might become cooler than having them. And those who did change the way they live would acquire the moral standing to demand changes in behavior from others — from other people, other corporations, even other countries.
All of this could, theoretically, happen. What I'm describing (imagining would probably be more accurate) is a process of viral social change, and change of this kind, which is nonlinear, is never something anyone can plan or predict or count on. Who knows, maybe the virus will reach all the way to Chongqing and infect my Chinese evil twin. Or not. Maybe going green will prove a passing fad and will lose steam after a few years, just as it did in the 1980s, when Ronald Reagan took down Jimmy Carter's solar panels from the roof of the White House.

Going personally green is a bet, nothing more or less, though it's one we probably all should make, even if the odds of it paying off aren't great. Sometimes you have to act as if acting will make a difference, even when you can't prove that it will. That, after all, was precisely what happened in Communist Czechoslovakia and Poland, when a handful of individuals like Vaclav Havel and Adam Michnik resolved that they would simply conduct their lives "as if" they lived in a free society. That improbable bet created a tiny space of liberty that, in time, expanded to take in, and then help take down, the whole of the Eastern bloc.

So what would be a comparable bet that the individual might make in the case of the environmental crisis? Havel himself has suggested that people begin to "conduct themselves as if they were to live on this earth forever and be answerable for its condition one day." Fair enough, but let me propose a slightly less abstract and daunting wager. The idea is to find one thing to do in your life that doesn't involve spending or voting, that may or may not virally rock the world but is real and particular (as well as symbolic) and that, come what may, will offer its own rewards. Maybe you decide to give up meat, an act that would reduce your carbon footprint by as much as a quarter. Or you could try this: determine to observe the Sabbath. For one day a week, abstain completely from economic activity: no shopping, no driving, no electronics.
But the act I want to talk about is growing some — even just a little — of your own food. Rip out your lawn, if you have one, and if you don't — if you live in a high-rise, or have a yard shrouded in shade — look into getting a plot in a community garden. Measured against the Problem We Face, planting a garden sounds pretty benign, I know, but in fact it's one of the most powerful things an individual can do — to reduce your carbon footprint, sure, but more important, to reduce your sense of dependence and dividedness: to change the cheap-energy mind.
A great many things happen when you plant a vegetable garden, some of them directly related to climate change, others indirect but related nevertheless. Growing food, we forget, comprises the original solar technology: calories produced by means of photosynthesis. Years ago the cheap-energy mind discovered that more food could be produced with less effort by replacing sunlight with fossil-fuel fertilizers and pesticides, with a result that the typical calorie of food energy in your diet now requires about 10 calories of fossil-fuel energy to produce. It's estimated that the way we feed ourselves (or rather, allow ourselves to be fed) accounts for about a fifth of the greenhouse gas for which each of us is responsible.

Yet the sun still shines down on your yard, and photosynthesis still works so abundantly that in a thoughtfully organized vegetable garden (one planted from seed, nourished by compost from the kitchen and involving not too many drives to the garden center), you can grow the proverbial free lunch — CO2-free and dollar-free. This is the most-local food you can possibly eat (not to mention the freshest, tastiest and most nutritious), with a carbon footprint so faint that even the New Zealand lamb council dares not challenge it. And while we're counting carbon, consider too your compost pile, which shrinks the heap of garbage your household needs trucked away even as it feeds your vegetables and sequesters carbon in your soil. What else? Well, you will probably notice that you're getting a pretty good workout there in your garden, burning calories without having to get into the car to drive to the gym. (It is one of the absurdities of the modern division of labor that, having replaced physical labor with fossil fuel, we now have to burn even more fossil fuel to keep our unemployed bodies in shape.) Also, by engaging both body and mind, time spent in the garden is time (and energy) subtracted from electronic forms of entertainment.
You begin to see that growing even a little of your own food is, as Wendell Berry pointed out 30 years ago, one of those solutions that, instead of begetting a new set of problems — the way "solutions" like ethanol or nuclear power inevitably do — actually beget other solutions, and not only of the kind that save carbon. Still more valuable are the habits of mind that growing a little of your own food can yield. You quickly learn that you need not be dependent on specialists to provide for yourself — that your body is still good for something and may actually be enlisted in its own support. If the experts are right, if both oil and time are running out, these are skills and habits of mind we're all very soon going to need. We may also need the food. Could gardens provide it? Well, during World War II, victory gardens supplied as much as 40 percent of the produce Americans ate.

But there are sweeter reasons to plant that garden, to bother. At least in this one corner of your yard and life, you will have begun to heal the split between what you think and what you do, to commingle your identities as consumer and producer and citizen. Chances are, your garden will re-engage you with your neighbors, for you will have produce to give away and the need to borrow their tools. You will have reduced the power of the cheap-energy mind by personally overcoming its most debilitating weakness: its helplessness and the fact that it can't do much of anything that doesn't involve division or subtraction. The garden's season-long transit from seed to ripe fruit — will you get a load of that zucchini?! — suggests that the operations of addition and multiplication still obtain, that the abundance of nature is not exhausted. The single greatest lesson the garden teaches is that our relationship to the planet need not be zero-sum, and that as long as the sun still shines and people still can plan and plant, think and do, we can, if we bother to try, find ways to provide for ourselves without diminishing the world.

Michael Pollan, a contributing writer for the magazine, is the author, most recently, of "In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto."

Saturday, March 29, 2008

Where Have All the Manhole Covers Gone?

















It's a world gone MAD!!

By Daniel K. Gardner
Published: March 28, 2008

This from the Daily Herald in suburban Chicago on on Jan. 12: "On Dec. 22, police pulled over a 33-year-old Lake in the Hills woman after she failed to use a turn signal. The authorities say they found 11 manhole covers in her car, eventually leading to charges against her."

And from The Guardian in England in October 2004: "London has joined the select band of world cities cursed by the mysterious phenomenon of manhole cover theft. The target has been Newham, east London, where in recent weeks nearly 200 grates and covers have been stolen. The thieves made off with 93 covers in one week."

Since 2004, dozens of cities on every continent - including Cardiff, Montreal, Milwaukee, Daegu, Chandigarh and Johannesburg - have experienced waves of manhole cover theft.

Calcutta's daily Telegraph has estimated that at least 20,000 of the city's manhole covers are stolen every year. The Beijing Times claims that Beijing lost 24,000 covers, valued at over $5 million, to theft in 2004 alone, and the China Daily has reported that on average, 12 are pilfered everyday in Shanghai. In Greenville, South Carolina, population 56,000, the Public Works Department says as many as 40 manhole covers have disappeared since November.
Even if you're like me, you're not normally given to thinking about manhole covers, you still may be asking why a 33-year-old woman would be driving around a Chicago suburb with 11 of them in her car. What motives did she, and all the other manhole-cover thieves around the world, have for making off with cast-iron discs weighing in excess of 50 pounds?

This: In 2001, scrap metal sold for $77 a ton; at the end of 2004, it was $300 per ton, and today it's approaching $480. Behind the rise, say the analysts, is China's voracious demand for steel.
The construction market in China has been booming since the dawn of the new millennium, fueled by explosive growth in the industrial economy.

Steel companies in China have been racing to keep up with the demand, but iron ore production in China is limited, pressuring steel companies to sign long-term supply contracts with foreign mining companies. These contracts run into the billions of dollars.

Melting down existing metal is cheaper and more efficient than processing iron ore. Representatives of Chinese steel companies consequently have fanned out across the globe in search of scrap metal.

scrap dealers, from San Diego to London to Kuala Lumpur, tell of Chinese knocking at their doors every five minutes, offering premium prices for any scrap metal they might have. The dealers, in turn, have been aggressively expanding their networks of suppliers - often small mom-and-pop salvage yards - promising them ever higher prices for their scrap. Mom and pop, finally, are happily paying $5 to $6 for each 50-pound cover, while the city of Elgin, Illinois, for one, is left with a dangerous hole in the street and a $150 bill for a new cover.

The epidemic is spreading beyond manhole covers. The beer industry estimates that it is losing some $50 million in pilfered stainless steel kegs every year. Some July 4 and Super Bowl celebrators have discovered that taking the empty keg to a scrap dealer fetches far more than the $10-$30 deposit they put on it, so they forego the deposit. That may be financially sound, but it is illegal, as is stealing empty kegs from alleyways and storage areas of restaurants, bars, and beer distributors.

Enterprising individuals in Ukraine recently stole a historic 1924 steam locomotive, the first ever to be built in Ukraine, from an open air museum and sold it as salvage to a scrap dealer.
In 2006, a sting operation in Vancouver recovered an intact phone booth. One obvious moral here is that unscrupulous dealers are enablers. Those who trade in manhole covers marked "Property of the City of Milwaukee," or beer kegs stamped with "Anheuser-Busch," or telephone booths carrying the Telus logo, probably have a pretty good idea that these didn't come from a musty attic.

Deterring the theft of manhole covers could take a range of forms. In Vancouver, officials ordered stricter enforcement of laws prohibiting scrap dealers from trading in manhole covers and other obviously stolen scrap. Milwaukee considered installing locking devices on its manhole covers, but decided it was too expensive.

Finally, cities could replace their iron covers, so tempting to criminals, with covers made of non-metal polymer materials with no recycling value, such as glass fiber, resin, quartz or corundum. Beijing has been experimenting with composite covers since early 2005.

Those cities around the world hit hard by the epidemic should have no difficulty obtaining these theft-deterrent covers. Factories all over China - some probably built out of recycled manhole covers - are standing ready to take their orders.

Daniel K. Gardner is a professor of history at Smith College.

Friday, March 14, 2008

Another Take on the Hillary-Bill Political Machine






By hook or by crook, it's the Clinton way
Senator Hillary Clinton holds a baby during a campaign event in Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, this week


By Johann Hari in Washington

Thursday March 13 2008


Haven't we seen this movie before? Barack Obama has just proved his chasm-wide appeal again by conquering another Republican-red state -- Mississippi -- yet the battle for the Democratic nomination is set to stretch out on to the far horizon.


As the comedian Bill Maher says, in a reference to John McCain's age, "It's a bad sign when the Democratic campaign is set to last longer than the Republican nominee." But the looming ending to this story feels flatly familiar -- like a slo-mo remake of Florida in the year 2000.


It is clear the Clintons are determined to get this nomination, any way, any how. If they have to do it by falsely claiming to have won states like Florida and Michigan -- where Obama's name wasn't even on the ballot, because there was an agreement by all the candidates to punish the states for holding early primaries -- then they will.


If they have to do it by overturning the will of the Democratic electorate by appealing to the unelected super-delegates -- a group of party functionaries who seem likely to hold the balance -- then they will. If they have to do it by pandering to racist sentiments n dismissing Obama as akin to the black firebrand Jesse Jackson, or by leaking images of Obama in African tribal dress -- then they will do it. Some American liberals have been suddenly, violently disillusioned by the Clintons' tactics over the past few months. But in reality, for people who could see beyond political tribalism, the nature of the Clintons has been plain for a long time.


The idea that Clinton was "the first black President" was always implicitly racist: so screwing around, riffing well in speeches and liking fried chicken makes you black now? In fact, Bill Clinton was prepared to lash black people whenever it was politically convenient, with the quiescence of Hillary. Just after receiving the Democratic nomination for president, Governor Clinton returned to Arkansas to authorise the execution of a black man, Ricky Ray Rector, who was so profoundly mentally disabled that he told the guards to keep his last meal so he could have it tomorrow.


Attacking blacks when an election neared became a habit: in 1996, Clinton signed a package of welfare reform that effectively abolished benefits for poor women after a two-year time-limit. They are disproportionately black -- and as a recession hits now, they will suffer severely.
Of course you have to make compromises to achieve power. But at some point, on some issues, you have to say: no, I can't. I can't execute this mentally disabled black guy. I can't plunge millions of kids into poverty. I can't still insist I was right to back the war in Iraq, when it has killed more than 650,000 Iraqis. The Clintons don't have that gagging reflex.


Instead, they chose to turn themselves into weathervanes, pointing whichever way the winds of mega-power blow. Why did it take us so long to see them for what they are? Partly, it is because the Clintons were blessed with a parade of even greater grotesques as enemies. The right couldn't attack the Clintons on their genuinely scandalous behaviour, because they supported it all: the executions, the abolition of benefits, the crackdowns.


So they contrived nonsense scandals, like Whitewater and Monicagate. Today, many of them are serving up stale sexism against Hillary: right-wing host Tucker Carlson has announced, "There's something about her that feels castrating, overbearing and scary." Think about the symbolism for the watching world if the Clintons manage to snatch this nomination. The people in a majority of states in America will have shown they are ready to embrace a black man as president -- only for some white guys in suits to hand it to the wife of the ex-president.


Their arguments in their own defence will seem feeble. The idea that Hillary is more "experienced" seems to me both anti-feminist and untrue. How does being married to a man make you "experienced" in his job? As the stand-up comedian Chris Rock said in a recent gig, "I don't get it. I've been married for 10 years -- but if my wife came out here on stage now, you wouldn't laugh."


There is evidence that President Obama would be more susceptible to pressure from progressives than Hillary. If the Clintons prevail, there will be a worse effect still: the US will be much more likely to have another Republican president. Most major polls show Obama is more likely to beat John McCain. The Republicans are desperate for a Hillary candidacy, knowing it is the one thing that can unite their base behind McCain. The far-right radio hosts, Rush Limbaugh and Laura Ingraham, have begged their listeners to go out and vote for her in the Democratic primaries.


Hillary would be unable to make an election issue out of McCain's greatest weakness -- his support for the invasion of Iraq -- because she made the same dumb mistake. She would have to fall back on reinforcing right-wing ideas by bragging about her "toughness". The enthusiasm Obama has stirred among first-time voters would leech away.


With their latest lunge at power, the Clintons have shown us how they should be remembered when the end credits roll -- as a greasy stain on the bright blue dress of the Democratic Party.


(© The Independent, London)
- Johann Hari in Washington